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You can see the patterns that you create in the block of clay by doing the distorting and stacking in the blue and purple blocks.  The red block has not been sliced yet but I am sure that I will find really nice patterns in it as well.

mgblock61.jpg

Once I figure out what background color to use, I condition that clay and roll it medium thin.  (I use setting 3 on my Atlas, with 1 being the thickest.)  I then carefully slice thin layers of clay off of the block.  I do the slicing across the top of the block to get the most interesting patterns.  If you want to slice the block of the sides you will get patterns that look like layers of sand.  If there is  a slice that I am not happy with, I can change the look by placing another slice over top of it.

mgblock7.jpg

One thing to remember when picking the background color is if you have used translucent clay, that color will be seen through the slices. 

I then reform the block and press it thinner.  I do this all by hand or with tiles but never send the clay through the pasta machine.  I then do the distorting and reforming the block a few more times.  Until I think that there is enough interesting patterns inside.mgblock5.jpg

This are my current blocks of Mokume Gane.  The red one is the one that I just took pictures of the steps for my blog.  The purple is on that I did just because I like purples.  I did use metal leaf in that block.  The blue and silver has translucent and no metal leaf.  I have been making beads and barrettes out of it.  I haven’t sliced into the red block.  I try to let the clay rest before making thin slices.

mgblock6.jpg

This is the technique that I use the most to make mokume gane blocks out of polymer clay.  Once I figure out what colors I want to use; I start conditioning the blocks of clay.  I will use four to six different colors for each block.  Sometimes I will also add metal leaf between a few of the layers to add sparkle.  I also use a lot of translucent colors.  Once all of the clay is conditioned I stack it in many layers of different thickness.  I try to place the colors in an order that looks pleasing.  This is what is ends up looking like when all the layers are together.

mgblock11.jpg

I then use something the distort the clay.  I will use the handle of a paintbrush or some of my clay shaping tools.  I vary the depth of the holes.  The clay then looks like this.mgblock2.jpg

Then I slice the clay in half and stack it back together keeping the layers in the same order.

mgblock3.jpgmgblock4.jpg

I am active on a polymer clay forum and have started a challenge.  Each month or so we will be trying a different technique, color combination or what ever to help us develop new skills.  The challenges are set at the first of the month and by the end of the month, we just have to post pictures of what we have done.

Since I came up with the idea, I get to “pick” the first challenge.  Oh, what to do!  I know that many people have not tried mokume gane but I really enjoy doing that technique and currently have two different blocks of it on my work table with the pains to make at least one more.  (I have a one in purples and one in blues and silver and am planing on doing on in pinks, red, whites and gold.)  I could also choose doing something with alcohol inks but I am not sure how many people have them or want to buy them.  (Alcohol inks are expensive but you use very little of them to get the effect that you want so they last for ever, it seems.)  I am not into color combinations right now, I tend to stick to the tried and true ones.  I also use the color wheel and figure out how to make the colors work together.

I am thinking that I might do a texture challenge.  I don’t do a lot with texture but I have seen some wonderful pieces done with just texture.  I am think that that might be a good challenge.  To create a piece that is accented with textures only, no different colors or hues, just texture.

These are two of the barrettes that I have made using the technique that I described in the previous post.  This technique is credited to Lindly Haunani, who is one of the originators for using it with polymer clay.

Both barrettes are made from the same block of mokume gane.  I use translucent clay with gold leafing.  The slices where placed on different colored backgrounds.  Instead of sanding and buffing, I used a glossy sealer to protect the leaf from discoloring.

mg-300.jpg  This barrette is backed with yellow clay.

mg-302.jpg This one has a dark green backing.

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