This is the technique that I use the most to make mokume gane blocks out of polymer clay. Once I figure out what colors I want to use; I start conditioning the blocks of clay. I will use four to six different colors for each block. Sometimes I will also add metal leaf between a few of the layers to add sparkle. I also use a lot of translucent colors. Once all of the clay is conditioned I stack it in many layers of different thickness. I try to place the colors in an order that looks pleasing. This is what is ends up looking like when all the layers are together.
I then use something the distort the clay. I will use the handle of a paintbrush or some of my clay shaping tools. I vary the depth of the holes. The clay then looks like this.
Then I slice the clay in half and stack it back together keeping the layers in the same order.
These are two of the barrettes that I have made using the technique that I described in the previous post. This technique is credited to Lindly Haunani, who is one of the originators for using it with polymer clay.
Both barrettes are made from the same block of mokume gane. I use translucent clay with gold leafing. The slices where placed on different colored backgrounds. Instead of sanding and buffing, I used a glossy sealer to protect the leaf from discoloring.
This barrette is backed with yellow clay.
This one has a dark green backing.
I get asked what is Mokume Gane a lot. Mokume Gane (pronounced moKumay GAmay) is a Japanese metalsmithing technique. It is translated as “wood eye metal” and was developed during the 17th century by Denbei Shoami. It is easy to mimic the technique with polymer clay.
There are many ways to do Mokume Gane in polymer clay. They all involve using thin layers of clay and usually some metal leafing.
One of the easiest techniques is to condition translucent polymer clay. Once it is conditioned add a small amount of colored clay to tint it. (You want to colors to go with each other like turquoise, violet and magenta.) Make four to five different sheets of the tinted translucent clay. Add a sheet of silver metal leafing to the top of each sheet. You will need to make sure not to trap air between the leaf and the clay. Then layer the sheets of clay and leaf. Again you want to gentle roll each layer to make sure there is no air trapped between.
You should have some left over tinted translucent clay. Make small balls of each of the different colors. You will use the balls to fill cavities that you make in the stack of layered clay. To make the cavities, simply poke the stack with the blunt end of a paintbrush or pen. Let the stack rest. Turn the stack over so that the balls are on the bottom and slice the stack thinly in random places. Each slice will reveal a different look. Arrange the slices on a background sheet of clay untill you like how it looks. Use the sheets to make what ever project you want. You can cover a glass vase, make hair barrettes, pendents, lental beads and almost anything else. Bake the clay according to directions.
The final step is to sand and buff to an high sheen.
Sometimes I just want to have a barrette come out looking nice but with out a lot of work or time. I recently found a faux burl wood recipe in one of my many books on polymer clay (Faux Surface Treatments by Irene Dean). I had to try it. It is simply mixing three different colors of clay and then chopping them into pieces in a food processor. Then you press the clumps together and roll them out. Very easy and also quick. This is one of the barrettes that I made.
This barrette is one that I made earlier this summer. It is blue clay covered with foil and then textured. I used foil that I got from www.coveredinclay.com . The people who run the website are very nice and knowledgable in polymer clay. The texture is from a sheet that is used to texture candy but does really well with clay.
I was asked recently how I finish my polymer clay pieces.
I will say that it all depends on what I am making and the look that I am after. Most of the time I simply sand the clay with wet/dry sandpaper (the kind that you use for autos) starting with a heavier grit and working to a very fine one until I like how the piece looks. Then I buff it to a shine.
I will also use a number of finishes if I want the piece really glossy. For those pieces I will sand a little, just to make sure that they are smooth and then cover them with either Varathane (made by Rustoleum) or Triple Thick (made by Deltacraft). Many people while use Future floor wax to seal the polymer clay but I am afraid that the hair products that people use could damage the finish. I know that Varathane and Triple Thick will hold up to the chemicals.
There are many other ways to finish polymer clay. These are just the ones that I use currently.